On Tobago, you can still feel like Robinson Crusoe in a solitary sandy cove -- at least until Saturday, when the Trinidadians fly over for a weekend on the beach.
Villas Caribe Tobago Beach Selections
Pigeon Point, on the northwestern shore, is the best-known bathing area, with a long coral beach. It's public, but to reach it you must enter a former coconut estate, which charges a fee of TT$10 (US$1.60). Set against a backdrop of royal palms, this beach is becoming increasingly commercial. Facilities include food kiosks, crafts shops, a diving concession, paddleboat rentals, changing rooms in thatched shelters, and picnic tables. Pigeon Point is also the jumping off point for snorkeling cruises to Buccoo Reef.
Back Bay is an 8-minute walk from Mount Irvine Bay. Along the way, you'll pass a coconut plantation and an old cannon emplacement. Snorkeling is generally excellent, even in winter. There are sometimes dangerous currents, but you can always explore Rocky Point Beach and its brilliantly colored parrotfish. In July and August, the surfing is the finest in Tobago; it's also likely to be good in January and April. Stop in Scarborough for picnic fixings, which you can enjoy at the picnic tables here; a snack bar sells cold beer and drinks.
Great Courland Bay is known for its calm, gin-clear waters, and is flanked by Turtle Beach, named for the turtles that nest here. Near Fort Bennett and south of Plymouth, Great Courland Bay is one of the longest sandy beaches on the island and the site of several hotels and a marina.
The locals and the fishing boats make the setting at half-moon-shaped Parlatuvier Beach (on the north side of the island) more bucolic than the swimming. If you can't stand crowds, head for Englishman's Bay, on the north coast just west of Parlatuvier. We don't know why this beach is virtually deserted: It's charming, secluded, and good for swimming.
Near the little fishing village of Charlotteville, Man-O-War Bay is one of the finest natural harbors in the West Indies. It has a long sandy beach and a government-run rest house. Sometimes local fishermen will hawk the day's catch (and clean it for you as well). Nearby Lovers' Beach is accessible only by boat and is famous for its pink sand, formed long ago from crushed sea shells. Negotiate a fee with one of the local boatmen; expect to pay around US$25.
The true beach buff will head for King's Bay in the northeast, south of the town of Speyside near Delaford. Against a backdrop of towering green hills, the crescent-shaped grayish-sand beach is one of the best places for swimming.